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Post by MugRB on Oct 25, 2009 0:43:34 GMT -5
Might be getting a winter beater to drive to work. Park the pickup till spring.
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Post by MugRB on Oct 25, 2009 19:36:25 GMT -5
Will pick it up next week. Will be bringing a new battery, new transaxle fluid, filter and pan gasket. The transaxle does leak fluid, but I can only see wetness all around the oil pan. Most likely the pan gasket is shot and leaking fluid like a sieve. The right and left half shaft seals are bone dry. Will also need another driver's side door as the original is rusted out. Don't care if it's blue, red and canary yellow on a white car. Just as long as it's solid and has a non-broken side view mirror.
I drove it and it runs good. Body is relatively good condition. All new exhaust from catalytic all the way back to the tailpipe. All the lights work. Not bad for $250 as it has about 120,200 miles on the odometer.
I have pictures of the car. Whenever I find 'em, will post 'em. Though the car looks a bit better two years ago than it does now. It's been sitting more than it has been driven. Was suppose to be one of Sis's boys car, but they had to have a job in order to take care of it. So it remain sitting by the garage till then. So I made an offer, they liked, I now have it.
The Ranger is over that with about 121,400 miles. Father's Tracer is about 126,500 miles and still going strong.
PS: It has a really kool looking stereo CD player by JVC with detachable faceplate. Don't know if it playes MP3's though.
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Post by MugRB on Oct 25, 2009 20:11:45 GMT -5
1994 Chevy Cavaleir - front view. Rear view of the Cavaleir.
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Post by MugRB on Nov 1, 2009 0:12:08 GMT -5
Wonder why the transaxle was leaking so much, I didn't need a wrench to remove the pan bolts. They were so loose that I removed them with my fingers. The cork gasket was very brittle. The transaxle doesn't leak any more with a new gasket, wrench tight pan bolts, new filter and fluid.
New engine oil & filter as well. New battery too. Plus new wiper blades.
Next project is to work on the front brakes. The driver's side caliper isn't sliding right - caused the inside pad to prematurely wear too quickly. It's grinding now. The rotors will have to be replaced.
Manage to get at least one new door lock installed. Still have to get the passenger side lock in.
Only had one problem after leaving I-196 and turning onto M-40. The engine stalled. So I unplugged the TCC solenoid. Never had a problem since then, but the engine runs a touch faster at 55 mph.
Will have to replace at least the driver's side strut as it's badly worn. It felt almost like riding on the coil spring only.
Can't complain, I did get the car for $250. And it was surely a drivable car as I drove it from Jenison to Grand Junction - about a 75 mile trip. The only problem was the TCC solenoid wouldn't disengaged causing the engine to stall while stopping the car.
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Post by long on Nov 1, 2009 17:28:03 GMT -5
Looks good MugRB. Im wondering if I should get winter tyers this winter for my ford focus that I got begining of the year. As although we did get snow and frost last winter it was not as bad as some other parts of the USA. MugRB any advice would be greatful or if anyone else on here and any advice for me.
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Post by MugRB on Nov 2, 2009 1:57:09 GMT -5
I would suggest buying All Season tires as they are the best for all conditions. They should be rated M+S (mud & snow). I like the ones I got for my truck - trying to remember the brand. Somehow I lost the brand name in my huge library that's all cluttered up. When all else fails digging through my huge library (my brain) - resort to the file cabinet for the actual bill. Geez! Kelly Navigator Gold which have a 70k mile warranty. The truck tires are $94.99 per tire as of last year. But keep in mind car tires will be cheaper. Today I spent a nice sunny morning putting on new brake pads and rotors on my car. Now it really drive good as I no longer hear grinding noise when I apply the brakes. May be driving this car allot more than just for the winter. Save some wear & tear on my pickup.
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Post by long on Nov 2, 2009 17:20:16 GMT -5
I would suggest buying All Season tires as they are the best for all conditions. They should be rated M+S (mud & snow). I like the ones I got for my truck - trying to remember the brand. Somehow I lost the brand name in my huge library that's all cluttered up. When all else fails digging through my huge library (my brain) - resort to the file cabinet for the actual bill. Geez! Kelly Navigator Gold which have a 70k mile warranty. The truck tires are $94.99 per tire as of last year. But keep in mind car tires will be cheaper. Today I spent a nice sunny morning putting on new brake pads and rotors on my car. Now it really drive good as I no longer hear grinding noise when I apply the brakes. May be driving this car allot more than just for the winter. Save some wear & tear on my pickup. Thanx for the info.
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Post by MugRB on Nov 5, 2009 11:43:29 GMT -5
The car is doing much better at keeping it's fluids. The transaxle hasn't leaked a drop yet. Had to add more coolant to the overflow tank as the radiator was very low. It's doing good now. Power steering tank was also very low and I added more to that too. The car drives good other than worn struts on the front - especially the driver's side strut is quite bouncy. The rear shocks are fine though.
The MPG is only 2 mpg better than my Ranger (pickup is 26 mpg), it's getting 28 mpg. Not good, but I do have the TCC unplugged. May have to do a test this weekend on the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch). That is GM's version of an overdrive like system. It changes the fluid coupled Torque Converter to a mechanical couple like a manual transmission. Then switches back over to fluid coupling so that the automatic can down shift. Otherwise being mechanically locked in, the transaxle cannot down shift causing the engine to stall stopping the car. Seems odd when I got off of I-196 westbound to the M-40 off-ramp that the engine stalled while stopping the car at the light. Immediately got out to unplug the TCC, got back int he car, started the engine, put it in gear and drove off. If it was a sticking solenoid, shouldn't it still be stuck even after unplugging the electric?? Usually when a solenoid sticks, it stays stuck. Seems to me it's more of a PCM (Powertrain Control Module) problem energizing the TCC (Torque Converter Clutch).
May have to do a test using a switch to cut off the power to the TCC from inside the car, a pilot light to illuminate when the PCM energizes the TCC and monitor the engine via a tachometer when slowing/stopping the car. I may have to manually override the PCM via that switch mounted inside the car to get the most mpg's that car should get, but without stall the engine every time I stop the car.
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Post by MugRB on Nov 14, 2009 0:51:50 GMT -5
As I own this car. The ranger on the other hand is financed. Still have a couple more years to go to have they paid down. But would really hate to lose my pickup.
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Post by red on Nov 14, 2009 20:41:32 GMT -5
That's the ticket!
Did ya get that solenoid fixed?
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